If you’ve ever wondered how to shorten a pair of pants, just take a few minutes and read this article. It will lay out a simple step-by-step guide to help you through the alteration process.
Altering the length of a pant leg isn’t an exact science. It isn’t even perfect, nor should it be. It doesn’t even matter if it’s 100% perfect. No sewing alteration is.
It know this because I’ve been sewing for over 30 years and I’ve done my share of alterations. I’ve seen the good, bad, and ugly, and at the end of the day, all that matters is getting the job done.
I’m not saying it’s okay to do a bad job, I’m just saying that we complicate things way too much.
If you want to start your own sewing alteration business, and you are hung up on the little imperfections, or you think you don’t have enough experience, stop!
Stop worrying about the little things and just do it.
Like I said before, sewing alterations are NOT a perfect science. It’s okay if a thread is out of place or you backstitch crookedly. Just do it!
The more times you do it, the better you’ll get at it.
Take for example a pair of scrubs. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to shorten my husband’s scrubs for work. He’s a short man, so every pair needs to be altered.
Recently, he had two pair of pants that needed shortening. It didn’t take long to do, and it was really simple, but I thought of all the people who are starting alteration businesses, that may need a little guidance.
Let’s’ go through the basic steps. And remember, DO NOT think it has to be perfect. Even the most experienced seamstress makes imperfect stitches. If it doesn’t look good, pick it out and re-do it.
STEP 1
Measure and Mark – Before we do that, it’s important to examine the pants you want to shorten. Don’t just cut off the ends and hope it’s right. Have the client try the pants on if you can.
Sometimes they’re in a hurry and drop off the pants, giving you instructions to cut off a 1/2″ inch. But try to get them to stay for a minute to try the pants on.
That’s fine if they are adamant about it, but if they have some time, have them try on the pants. You want to make sure they bring their shoes they wear with the pants.
For example, my husband wears sneakers to work so I had to make sure there was enough pant overhang to drape over the shoe. The worst thing is cutting a pant leg too short. Sure you can re-sew a cuff back on, but you want to avoid that.
Measure right the first time.
Honestly, most of it is trial and error. Be confident in what you are doing and never let them see you sweat. YOU are the professional.
A general rule of thumb if the client didn’t bring his shoes, is to allow an “L” overhang where the ankle meets the foot. This will give enough room for a shoe.
If there isn’t an overhang, the cuff is probably too short. If you’ve already cut it, and you realize this, DON’T tell the client. Instead tell him you’re going to put a cuff on. And then do it.
If you’re shortening jeans or dress pants, that’s a different story, and a different article. For all intents and purposes, this articles is just for your basic pair of pants like a pair of scrubs. Nothing complicated.
Once you have the measurements down pat, just mark it with a pen or tailors chalk. Don’t complicate this step. You don’t have to pin all around the cuff. That’s redundant and not necessary. You’ll be laying it flat and cutting it anyway.
STEP 2
Cutting – Use a ruler or measuring stick and draw the line you are about to cut. What you use to draw the line doesn’t matter very much. Just draw the line as closely to the measurement as possible and make sure it’s even and square.
You don’t want one end being uneven. I usually flatten the pant legs together, draw the line, and then cut both legs at the same time.
Make sure there are no puckers and that both legs are even.
I also like to do this with the pants inside out, but that’s just me. You can cut right-side out as well. Don’t worry so much about the how. Just do it!
STEP 3
Roll and Sew – The method I use is a 1/4″ rolled hem. You can complicate this by pinning, measuring, and pressing, but don’t.
I just use my fingers and roll the hem as I sew. It’s really that simple. If the hem is a millimeter off, who cares. It isn’t even noticeable.
The reason I tell you not to worry so much, and just do it, is because the business of mending and alterations is time-sensitive.
You can spend 8 hours pressing and re-pressing a hem before finally sewing it, in hopes it will be absolutely perfect for a client. But that perfection doesn’t exist. Trust me, I worked in a sewing factory making suits and there is no such thing as perfect.
So, going forward, you MUST be paid for your time when it comes to alterations. Do you think a client will pay you for those 8 hours of fussing, before you finally sew the garment? NOPE! Nor should you tell them how long it took you if you fuss needlessly.
Just sew the darn thing, and make a living doing so. And you CAN make a great living doing alterations if you don’t waste time fussing.
Roll the hem, learn to do it quickly, and move on to the next project.
Simple as that.
STEP 4
Rounding The Circle – There are many different sewing machines, and any one of them will do. As long as it sews a straight line, you can use it.
But for me, I like to use a sewing machine with a removable arm like my single needle Pfaff. I can fit the pant leg cuff around the narrow portion under the needle. This allows me to round the pant leg circle with speed and accuracy.
Once you sew the 1/4″ hem and join the sewing lines, then just backstitch to hold it, and you’re all done.
One thing I want to point out is thickness of material. Depending on what kind of sewing machine you use, you may have trouble going through layers.
If you use a vintage machine like my old Elna, you can go through anything and never get stuck. But some newer machines are not as hardy, and get stuck when the fabric is thick.
The best way to address this issue is to make sure you clip away as much bulk as possible so that your machine will smoothly sew the seam.
No worries if it does get stuck though. Just go slow, turn your handwheel as you labor over the bulk, and 9 times out of 10 it will be just fine. That 1% of the time it gets stuck, just pick it out in that area, and go over it a second time.
You might have to cut away a ball of thread which sometimes happens, but oh well. Par for the course. Don’t panic. Just keep trying until it looks okay.
And it WILL look okay.
STEP 5
Clipping, Pressing, & Perfection – I clip all the threads off, and then I always press AFTER I sew. Yes you CAN press before, and depending on what I’m sewing, I either press before or after, but as a general rule, I like to quickly sew the pant hem, and THEN press.
Sure, like I said before, you can press everything out before you sew the hem, but remember you’re on the clock when it comes to alterations. Don’t waste time!
If you’re only getting paid $5 a leg hem, then don’t spend 5 hours prepping and sewing it.
Just get the job done. And either way, a hem is just a hem. It’s going to look relatively the same no matter what method you use.
So, going forward, just cut, sew, and THEN press the hem.
Pressing will complete the garment. It will give it a professional look, and that’s what you’re going for. If you don’t press the hem, the seam will look round and bulky.
Flat is professional.
STEP 6
Customer Satisfaction – The last step is the easiest. If your client isn’t in a hurry, have them try on the garment when they come pick it up. I can’t tell you enough how satisfying it is to see them appreciate your work.
Often times in a busy world, we rush here and there. When your client comes to pick up a finished garment, they are probably eager to get out of there, but PAUSE.
If you have a separate sewing studio in your house, invite them to have a cup of tea. Have them try on the pants, or dress, or gown, or whatever you are altering. It’s such an important step that most seamstresses skip, but it can be so rewarding.
I know for myself, when I altered dresses for a client, it meant so much to me when she tried them on after I altered them. Her smile made me feel appreciated and that I helped her in some small way.
Just passing garments back and forth doesn’t cut it. For me, I get attached to the projects I sew. If I’ve spent a week shortening a bridal gown, I want to see it on. The project has inadvertently become my baby, and I care how it fits.
Make sure you care.
Sewing for a living can be quite rewarding, but not because you take in a seam here or there. It’s because you have the ability to make someone happy.
YOU have the ability to make someone feel good about themselves when something actually fits them. And they in turn can give that happiness back to you with a smile of satisfaction for a job well done.
Don’t skip this step.
PAUSE… and appreciate your hard labor of love.
No matter if you are just shortening a basic pair of scrubs, or something more complicated, remember that what you do matters. It matters for yourself. It matters for the client. And… it matters to the entire sewing industry.
When something fits, we bring joy.
That’s powerful!
Those fingers that work to the bone, slaving over someone else’s trousers, actually have the ability to not just mend the garment, but mend the soul.
HAPPY SEWING!
If you want to know what sewing supplies you need to start an alteration business, be sure to check out my article, Best Sewing Tools Of The Trade.
If you want to know how to set up a sewing room for your business, check out my article, Setting Up A Sewing Room.
Watch my alteration video Shortening Pants.